Name: Elsa Schiaparelli
D.O.B.: 10th September 1890
D.O.D.: 1973 aged 83
Place of Birth: Rome ,
Italy
Gender: Female
Nationality: Italian
Occupation: Fashion Designer
Personal Profile
Schiaparelli was born in Rome at the Palazzo Corsini, she was of
Italian and Egyptian heritage. Her mother Neapolitan aristocrat and father
Celestino was a renowned scholar, curator of medieval manuscript and Dean of
the University of
Rome
Schiaparelli studied philosophy at the University of Rome
She had married at the age of 18 to William De Wendt De Kerlor
a Theosophist, it was said that he was her lecturer in Paris .
He drifted towards Europe
and ended up In New York with him. Schiaparelli was pregnant at the time and
gave birth to their daughter Maria Luisa Yvonne Radha De Wendt De Kerlor, William
abandoned her and her daughter after having the baby. She then returned to Paris a single mother,
she had applied for jobs with Poiret and Maggy Rouff but wasn’t successful.
Career and Work life
Schiaparelli became famous for her black knit sweaters with
a white bow tie pattern at the neck. Anita Loos had purchased one and a New York store buyer had
purchased 40 with skirt to go with them. She didn’t expect that and was shocked
at the success of the sweater, she hired a group of American women to knit
them.
She hired Salvador Dali to produce a white dress with a lobster print. Schiaparelli was the first to use shoulder pads hot pink, calling them shocking pink in 1947. She also had animal print fabrics and zips dyed the same colour as the fabric.
She was well known for her surrealist designs, especially
the two hats the giant shoe and the giant lamb chop both designs worn by the
famous Franco-American singer, sewing machine heiress Daisy Fellowes, who
happened to be Schiaparelli’s best clients and she even owned a pink gemstone
inspired by the Shocking Pink.
Schiaparelli collaborated with Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau
and Alberto Giaconetti they were they surrealist artists between 1936 and 1939.
Schiaparelli had opened her shop in London . She moved her Paris salon to 21 Place
Vendome, she put at the windows of her boutique the work of surrealist artists and
the handiwork of Dali which had got a lot of attention from the people walking nearby
on their way to the Ritz Hotel.
1936
She introduced the Egyptian look with Pagoda sleeves, that
same year the zip was invented. Schiaparelli used zips as part of her designs
to create a look rather then putting them away where they are not seen.
‘DESK SUIT’ which was inspired by Dali was produced.
Mrs Reginald Fellows, Wallis Simpson, Duchess of Windsor,
Millicent Rogers and Lady Elsie Mendl were among Schiaparelli’s elegant
clients.
She dressed many movie stars on and off the screen including
Marlene Dietrich, Gloria Swanson and Tallulah Bankhead.
Mae West’s hour glass figure was what led Schiaparelli to
use that shape for her perfume bottle ‘SHOCKING’.
1937
Back to front suit which was later copied by Karl Lagerfield
in 1986.
1938
The Three Greta Fantasy’s collection, The Pink and Blue children’s
world of Circus collection, The Lush Natural Insect life of PAGAN collection
and the Frolic HARLEQUIN collection (which became the name of Schiaparelli’s
lipstick).
During the 2nd World War Schiaparelli house had
closed down.
1945
Her house had re-opened
Her couture house declared bankruptcy, the young new
trendsetter was Christian Dior. She decides to move to the USA .
She moved to New
York City with Daughter Maria also known as Gogo who
was born there in 1919 and William who she was briefly married too.
She had discontinued the couture part of her business and
limited to just accessories and in the 70’s made wigs.
1954
Schiaparelli retired from work and that year she wrote her
autobiography and titled it ‘MY SHOCKING LIFE’
1973
She died at the age of 83
1977
Schiaparelli’s
house was re-opened by a designer team and till now her lingerie and perfume is
still sold.
No comments:
Post a Comment